Death Valley 2011 - Titus Canyon Jeep Quest

Rhyolite, now a ghost town, was known as the "Queen City". From 1905-1911, it was the largest town in the Death Valley area with a population of 5,000-10,000 people. During its heyday, it contained 2 churches, 50 saloons, 18 stores, 2 undertakers, 19 lodging houses, 8 doctors, 2 dentists, a stock exchange and an opera. The town contains numerous ruins including the Bottle House, Senator W.A. Clark's train depot, remains of a 3-story bank building, and the jail.
Red Pass (5,240’) - The highest point on the road is this divide between Titanothere and Titus Canyons. Stop to enjoy the grand view in both directions.

Leadfield, "boomed" for less than a year in 1926-27 because the lead deposits disappeared very quickly. All that is left today are a few shacks and a number of mines. Many of the mines are open, but enter at your own risk. Loose rocks, rotten timbers, unexpected vertical shafts, and animals seeking shelter are potential hazards.

You enter Titus Canyon just below the ghost town of Leadfield, the road enters the main fork of Titus Canyon. Limestone cliffs rise high above the broad wash; their folded layers reveal the work of great mountain building forces. Rugged, steep slopes provide habitats for bighorn sheep, cacti, and hanging gardens of rare plants.

The final 1.5 miles of the Titus Canyon is the very narrow. The walls squeeze down to less than 20 feet apart in some places. As the road enters the narrows it detours out of the wash and descends what is often the roughest part of the entire trip. It's a good idea to scout this section out before driving it.

Scotty’s Castle is hidden in the green oasis of Grapevine Canyon in far northern Death Valley, the Death Valley Ranch, or Scotty's Castle as it is more commonly known, is a window into the life and times of the Roaring 20's and Depression 30's. It was an engineer's dream home, a wealthy matron's vacation home, and a man-of-mystery's hideout and getaway. Walter Scott, Death Valley Scotty, convinced everyone that he had built the castle with money from his rich secret mines in the area. The problem, there were NO mines. Albert Mussey Johnson actually built the house as a vacation getaway for himself and his wife Bessie. Scotty was the mystery man, the cowboy, and the entertainer, but he was also a friend of Johnson’s. Albert was the brains and the money. As different as they were in real life, they both shared a common dream.

We have put together a YouTube movie presentation with a sound track. Turn up your speakers and click on the full-screen option in the lower right hand corner of the movie frame to get the full effect. CLICK HERE to watch the movie presentation.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon 2011

Only 10 miles as the raven flies from the South Rim, the North Rim offers a very different experience. Solitude, awe-inspiring views, a slower pace, fewer people, spectacular sunsets, and the feeling of going back in time are only a few of the many attributes the North Rim has to offer.

The North Rim sits atop the Kaibab Plateau, which is 8,000 to 9,000 feet above sea level. Its lush green meadows surrounded by a mixed conifer forest sprinkled with white-barked aspen provide an oasis in the desert. The yellows and oranges of quaking aspen and the reds of Rocky Mountain maple, gives the forest a magnificent glow. The crispness in the air warns of winter soon to come during Early Fall.

We stayed two days at the North Rim Campground, which was closed for the year. It was a very quiet, enjoyable, and peaceful time for us. Discover the uniqueness of the North Rim, you will not be sorry!

We have put together a YouTube movie presentation, with a soundtrack. Turn up your speakers and click on the full-screen icon in the lower right hand corner of the movie frame to get the full effect of the presentation. CLICK HERE to view the movie.

Spectacular ANTELOPE CANYON

A few miles east of Page, AZ on the Navajo Reservation is the most photographed slot canyon in northern Arizona. Over thousands of years, wind and water scoured a narrow crevice in the mesa to form a slot canyon. A slot canyon is a narrow canyon formed by water rushing through rock. A slot canyon is significantly deeper that it is wide. Most slot canyons are formed in sandstone or limestone rock. Upper Antelope Canyon measures a quarter mile long and 130 feet deep. When the flash floods occur in early spring, the canyon is completely filled with water. Once at the entrance, it’s an easy hike through the canyon which is fairly level.

The Navajo name for Upper Antelope Canyon is Tse' Bighanilini, which means "the place where water runs through rocks.” It has also been called “Corkscrew Canyon” and is one of the very few slot canyons in the area. To older Navajos, entering a place like Antelope Canyon was like entering a cathedral. They would probably pause before going in, to be in the right frame of mind and prepare for protection and respect. This would also allow them to leave with an uplifted feeling of what Mother Nature has to offer, and to be in harmony with something greater than themselves. It was, and is, a spiritual experience. Only a Navajo guide can take you to the canyon.

We have put together a very beautiful YouTube movie presentation of our trek through the canyon. It was a very spiritual and emotional experience to share this very special place with our Navajo guide. There is a sound track with the movie so turn up your speakers and click the full-screen icon in the lower right hand corner of the movie frame. CLICK HERE to watch the movie presentation.

Capitol Reef to Escalante/Grand Staircase

Click On Pictures To Enlarge and See Transcriptions

Capitol Reef National Park is characterized by sandstone formations, cliffs and canyons, and a 100-mile long bulge in the earth's crust called the Waterpocket Fold. Erosion has carved the rock into marvelous shapes. Since its designation as a national park in 1971, Capitol Reef has been intriguing visitors with its twisting canyons, massive domes, monoliths and spires of sandstone for many years.

Fruita was a Mormon settlement dating back to the late 1800’s along the Fremont River. Still present are the historic one-room school house, blacksmith shop, and the Gifford House and barn. No more than 8 to 10 families lived in this community at any one time. Twenty-two separate fruit orchards were originally planted in the valley. Apple, Peach, Cherry, Pear, and Apricot trees still grow in the orchards and are maintained by the National Park Service. You may pick and eat fruit free of charge while staying in the Fruita Campground. Fresh fruit pies and other pastries are also prepared daily and sold in the Gifford House.

Leaving Capitol Reef, we took Scenic Highway 12 ascending to 9,640’ before arriving in Escalante, UT. Our goal was to rent a jeep and to follow the original path of the 1879 Mormon expedition hoping to colonize the community of Bluff, southeast of the Colorado River. This route was very difficult and led them to a 1,200’ sandstone cliff above Glenn Canyon and the river. They found Hole-In-The-Rock which was a narrow, steep, and rocky crevice. They worked for months to prepare the road, using blasting powder to widen the upper section and had chisels to carve anchor points directly into the sandstone. On January 26, 1880 they began their descent to the river. Wagons were heavily roped, and teams of men and oxen used to lower them through the upper crevice. The blasting holes, anchor points, and gouges from the hubs of the expedition's wagons are still visible in the walls of the crevice. They used this as a supply road for only a year before locating an easier route to the north.

The memorial pictures above are in tribute to the original Mormon San Juan Expedition and a group of Mormon Boy Scouts and adults, who tragically lost their lives traveling this same route in 1963.

We have put together a YouTube movie presentation with a sound track. To get the full effect of the movie, turn your speakers on and click on the full-screen icon in the lower right hand corner of the movie frame. CLICK HERE to view the movie.

Four Corners, Monument Valley, Natural Bridges, and Goblin Valley

We left Albuquerque and headed north to Bloomfield, NM with the hope of visiting Chaco Canyon with an archeologist. Unfortunately, our trip into the canyon was rained out so we headed to Four Corners and Monument Valley. We passed through the town of Farmington NM with a stop at the Hogback Trading Company.

A visit to Hogback Trading Company is as much a part of the Four Corners experience as visiting the monument. Established in 1871 by Joseph Wheeler this post quickly became an institution in the daily lives of the Navajo people. Alabaster sculptors, silversmiths, weavers and young artisans of all forms have been encouraged by the Wheeler family for over 125 years.
Today, Tom Wheeler, fourth generation trader, continues the traditions of his great-grandfather and maintains a highly regarded reputation with artisans and collectors. Tom's hospitality, knowledge regarding history, and the most extensive inventory of Navajo Rugs and Turquoise Jewelry keeps visitors returning! Here, Nancy purchased her first piece of beautiful jewelry which had passed on through Tom’s family, which made it very special.

The Monument Valley trip had to be cancelled because of rain. There are no paved roads in this area which is on the Navajo Reservation. We spent the night at Mexican Hat and then traveled to Blanding, UT where we spent the night. We awoke to snow covered mountains and headed north to Natural Bridges.

Natural Bridges National Monument has three very distinctive sandstone bridges. These natural bridges are formed by the erosive action of moving water. Arches are formed by the erosive action of frost and seeping moisture.

Goblin Valley is full of strange shaped rock formations surrounded by walls of eroded cliffs. The wonderful stone shapes result from millions of years of geologic history. The goblins are made of Entrada sandstone which has been sculpted by forces of nature such as uplift and erosion by wind and water. The uniquely shaped goblins lure you to join them in their desert playground.

We have put together a YouTube movie presentation showing pictures of Four Corners, Monument Valley, Natural Bridges, and Goblin Valley. There is a sound track so turn up your speakers and click the full-screen icon in the lower right hand corner of the movie frame to get the full effect. CLICK HERE to watch the movie presentation.

Albuquerque Balloon Festival 2011

Thirty-eight Roadtrek'ers assembled in Albuquerque this year for the annual balloon festival. For many of us, it was the first and definately will not be the last. The celebration lasts for a week with a full schedule of events occuring from dawn to night fall. Each morning there is Mass Ascensions - a launch of all the participating balloons which as been a customary feature of Balloon Fiesta since its earliest days and is the most spectacular display of sound and color in all of aviation. During mass ascensions, balloons launch in two waves. Launch directors, also known as zebras because of their black-and-white-striped outfits, serve as traffic cops, coordinating the launch so balloons leave the field in a safe and coordinated manner. Weather permitting, balloons begin to launch at about 7:15 AM on mass ascension days, led by a balloon flying the American flag to the tune of The Star Spangled Banner. It is a very emotional site! The balloons are prepared for launch in early dawn and float into the sky and then touch down in designated landing areas. This is one of the most spectacular events that you can ever imagine.

We have put together a YouTube movie with a sound track. Turn your speakers up and click on the full-screen option in the lower right hand corner of the movie frame. CLICK HERE to watch the movie presentation.

Mesa Verde National Park 2011

On June 29, 1906, President Theodore Roosevelt established Mesa Verde National Park to “preserve the works of man.” It was the first and is the only park of its kind. He preserved an extraordinary record of Ancestral Puebloans , who made this place their home for over 750 years. Archeologists have called these people Anasazi, from a Navajo word translated as “the ancient foreigners.”

Traveling the Mesa Top reveals the full range of ancient architecture in Mesa Verde as the Anasazi’s lived in Pithouses, Pueblos, and then Cliff Dwellings. People lived in Pithouses from about 550 AD to 750 AD. These homes featured a living room sunk a few feet in the ground and four corner posts supported the roof. The firepit had an air deflector. An antechamber might contain storage bins or pits. Many features of the Pithouses were used in building Pueblos. Pithouses involved into Kivas.

By 1000 AD the people of Mesa Verde had advanced to skillful stone masonry. These dwellings were concentrated in compact villages and had many rooms, often with the Kivas built inside the enclosing walls rather than out in the open. The stone walls of the large pueblos are regarded as the finest ever built in Mesa Verde, with their straight courses and shaped stones.

Most of the cliff dwellings were built from the late 1190’s to the late 1270’s. They ranged in size from one-room houses to villages of more than 150 rooms – Cliff Palace. Ancestral Puebloans lived in the cliff dwellings for less than 100 years. By 1300 Mesa Verde was deserted. There are several theories regarding their migrations. Whatever may have happened, some of today’s Pueblo people, and maybe other tribes, are descendants of the cliff dwellers of Mesa Verde.

The movie presentation will show you the progression of the Ancestral Puebloan people of Mesa Verde. Remember to turn your speakers up and click on the full-screen icon in the lower right hand corner of the picture frame. CLICK HERE to view the movie.

Canyonlands National Park - 2011

The Wooden Shoe

Just thirty miles northwest of Moab and Arches National Park is Canyonlands. This spectacular wilderness of rock lies in the heart of the Colorado Plateau. Water and gravity, this land’s prime architects, have cut layers of sedimentary rock into hundreds of canyons, mesas, buttes, fins, arches, and spires. In the center are two canyons carved by the Green and Colorado rivers. Surrounding the rivers are vast, very different regions. To the north is “Island in the Sky”, to the east is “Needles”, and to the west the very remote “Maze”. Canyonlands was established in 1964 and very few people had traveled the remote land and rivers. Only Indians, cowboys, river explorers, and uranium prospectors had dared to enter this rugged corner of southeastern Utah. Canyonlands still remains largely untrammeled – its roads are mostly unpaved, trails primitive, and rivers free-flowing. Canyonlands is considered “Wild America”.

Island in the Sky is a broad mesa wedged between the Green and Colorado Rivers. Closest to the mesa’s edge is the White Rim. It is 1,200 feet below the top of the canyon and 1,000 feet about the two rivers. You will notice the rim in the pictures.

The Needles unit is very different than the others. The rock formations are very different and rise above the grassy meadows. The Needles are rock pinnacles banded in red and white. Many small arches can be found similar to the Wooden Shoe. Early Puebloans farmed this area as there was adequate water, arable land, and good building sites. In the late 1800’s pioneering cattlemen settled in this area. In 1926, there were 7,000 to 10,000 head that ranged over 1.8 million acres. This widespread ranching operation required cowboys to stay out on the range with the cattle. They lived in isolated outdoor camps such as the one near Cave Springs, which was used from the late 1800’s to 1975. The camp was established at Cave Springs because of the reliable water source that was available. Today, there is still a working cattle ranch that has been greatly down scaled from earlier times.

We have put together a “YouTube” movie presentation with music. Be sure to turn up your speakers and click the full-screen icon in the lower right hand corner of the movie frame to get the full effect of the presentation. CLICK HERE to watch the movie.

Arches National Park - 2011

Landscape Arch (306' Long)

The park lies atop an underground salt bed that is responsible for the abundance of arches, spires, balanced rocks, sandstone fins, and eroded monoliths that exist. Thousands of feet thick in places, this salt bed was deposited across the Colorado Plateau 300 million years ago when a sea flowed into the region and eventually evaporated. As time passed, the residue from floods, winds, and the oceans blanket the salt bed. The debris was compressed as rock and at one time was possibly over a mile thick. Water, ice, extreme temperatures, and underground salt movement are responsible for over 2,000 sculptured arches in the park. Landscape Arch is the longest measuring 306’, base to base, and is only 6’ thick at its narrowest width. Delicate Arch, an isolated remnant of a by-gone fin, stands on the brink of a very deep canyon with the dramatic La Sal Mountains as a backdrop. This is the arch you will see on the Utah State vehicle license plate. Towering spires, pinnacles, and balanced rocks, perched atop seemingly inadequate bases, fill the park and are abundant scenic spectacles. Salt under pressure is unstable and is no match for the Entrada (salmon-colored) and Navajo (buff-colored) Sandstone. New arches continue to be formed and old ones destroyed. Erosion and weathering work slowly and relentlessly, as these dynamic landforms gradually change through time.

American Indians used this area for thousands of years. They searched the arid desert for animals, plant food, and stone for tools and weapons. They left behind evidence of their passing through petroglyphs, artifacts, and villages. The first non-Indian explorers came looking for wealth and mineral forms. Ranchers found fertile grasses and raised cattle and sheep. In the late 1800’s John Wesley Wolf, a disabled Civil War Veteran and his son Fred, settled in Cache Valley. A weathered log cabin, root cellar, and corral are still evidence of the primitive ranch they operated for over 20 years.

I have put together a movie presentation for your enjoyment. Turn your speakers on and click the full-screen icon in the lower left corner of the picture frame to get the full effect of the movie presentation. CLICK HERE to view the movie of Arches National Park.

NEW Bench Seat

After returning from Alaska, we decided that we would like more storage space and also add a AC/DC portable refrigerator/freezer for our extended travel trips. We love to shop at Costco and Wal-Mart along the way and needed some more storage space for grocery items, plus additional cold storage. To provide this added feature, we took out the captain's seat behind the driver's seat and replaced it with a bench seat. We also added an extension to our counter top for additional space. Other additions include a magic bullet for those early morning smoothies and evening margaritas, plus a toaster oven. We are excited and set to get back on the road for our next adventure series.

ROADTREK Alaska - 2011

Alaska 2011 - Hyder, Alaska to Whistler, BC (FINAL Alaska Post)

"INUKSHUK"

Our trip down the Cassiar Highway (Hwy. 37) was a beautiful drive. Our goal was to get to Hyder, Alaska. We were starting to think about getting back home as well. However, there were still some places and things that we wanted to see and do. The weather was great and the scenery spectacular. We wanted to stop and look around at Jade City which was very interesting. They say that 70% of the worlds jade still comes from this area. In the slideshow below, look for the Jade sculpture of the INUKSHUK (In-ook-shook). This means "in the image of man" and were lifelike images of man erected in stone. They were unique to the Canadain Arctic and along Canadian's most northern shores. The original purpose of the Inukshuks was to act as a compass or guide. The ancients used them for safe trips and to guide them to the hunting grounds and home again. They were also used during winter snow storms where 30' to 60' of snow fell and drifted. As seen above, it was the symbol used on the 2010 Winter Olympics Logo. We saw more black bear on the Cassiar Highway than you could ever imagine.

We arrived in Hyder, Alaska with overcast sky's and a very thick cloud of “skeet’s”. There really is not much to do in Hyder, especially if the weather is bad. This area is very beautiful with its rugged mountains, waterfalls, and glaciers none of which we were able to see clearly due to the low hanging clouds and weather. We found a campsite at “Camp-Run-A-Muck” campground. We knew that we were too early to see the grizzly bears feeding on salmon, but drove up to the viewing site anyway. The highlights of our Hyder experience were seeing Bear Glacier and having the halibut stuffed dinner at the SeaAlaska Inn restaurant. We were not disappointed and would highly recommend this family kept recipe.

The weather forecast was for more rain, so we decided to bag Prince Rupert and visit the ‘Ksan Historical Village in Hazelton, BC. “Ksan is a reconstructed Gitxson village located at the confluence of the Bulkley and Skeena Rivers in northwest British Columbia. Gitxsan “People of the River of Mist” are a thriving, active First Nation community who still display the richness of their culture and heritage. There are approximately 13,000 members with 70% still living in the territory. It is the desire of ‘Ksan to preserve and truthfully portray the lifestyles of the people who have always lived here. All of the dwellings and totem poles are created from Red Cedar trees, as well as all other things: canoes, storage boxes, hats, cedar bark clothing, ceremonial masks, and tools. Cedar rope is still used to hoist totem poles and beams. Fishing is still a very important part of their survival and they look forward to visiting their many fishing camps in the summer months. We stayed at the very nice campground located in the village. To get to the village, you must cross the famous Hagwilget Bridge (single lane suspension) over the Bulkley River canyon. This bridge is 459’ long and is 262’ above the river. It is still one of the highest suspension bridges in North America.

Our next stop was the Treasure Cove casino in Prince George where we spent the night in the parking lot. The next morning we headed south through Clinton, BC to the Hwy. 99 junction and to Whistler, BC. This is a paved over logging road that takes you down the Fraser River and through the coastal range mountains to Pemberton and Whistler, BC. This is a single lane road in many places, crossing single lane bridges, with grades up to 17%. The scenery is spectacular and well worth the “white knuckle” experience.

Whistler Village and the surrounding area is a recreational paradise. After making several attempts in our past to visit Whistler Mountain, we finally got the opportunity. We stayed at the Riverside RV Park, which was within walking distance of Whistler Village. Historically in 1877, the Pemberton Trail first connected this region to the Pacific Ocean. It quickly became the inland route for prospectors and trappers into this untamed frontier area. In 1914, recognizing the immense recreational potential, Mrytle and Alex Phillips from America, bought 10 acres near Alta Lake and built the Rainbow Lodge. Soon after, the railroad came into Whistler Valley and this area became British Columbia’s top tourist attraction. Alta Lake is at the base of both Blackcomb and Whistler mountains. Today, it is an internationally-renowned four season destination and will be remembered as hosting the 2010 Winter Olympics.

We stayed two very enjoyable days, had beautiful weather, and did some hiking. Before departing Nancy and I looked at each other and said, “What a fantastic adventure and opportunity to share together in our lives”. This was a life-event never to be forgotten and we headed home to Fox Island.

We would like to thank those of you that followed us on our “Alaskan” adventure. Putting the blog together in a timely manner is a lot of work, but well worth the memories that you can share with those that you love – family and friends. THANK YOU!

CLICK HERE to view our slideshow traveling the Cassiar Highway to Hyder, Alaska.

CLICK HERE to view our slideshow of the 'Ksan Historical Village.

CLICK HERE to view our slideshow traveling Highway 99 to Whistler, BC.

The Alaska State Flag and Song
written by Maria Drake

Eight stars of gold on a field of blue
- Alaska's flag. May it mean to you
The blue of the sea, the evening sky,
The mountain lakes, and the flow'rs nearby;
The gold of the early sourdough's dreams,
The precious gold of the hills and streams;
The brilliant stars in the northern sky,
The "Bear" - the "Dipper" - and, shining high,
The great North Star with its steady light,
Over land and sea a beacon bright.
Alaska's flag - to Alaskans dear,
The simple flag of a last frontier.

There is nothing that will compare to driving your own rig and experiencing the interior of Alaska. The people, huge vastness, wildlife, perseverance of life, history, and absolute beauty is true and exciting. Living in Alaska is not for the timid or light-hearted. They are very proud people who still choose to live their lives in a very traditional manner.

They fish, hunt, grow enormous vegetables to winter themselves through cold, cold temperatures. The symbol on the Alaska Flag (Big Dipper and North Star) truly reflects what Alaskans are all about. Many times Alaskans cannot and will not depend on materialism or new technology, but choose to survive through self-sustaining relationships with mother-nature, a determined will and spirit, family, and friends. They depend on strong work ethics, helping each other, and generational survival techniques. Understandingly, many young children are home schooled.

This truly has been a life-time experience that both Nancy and I will never forget. When you consider the population of Alaska (approximately 725,000) living in a state that is almost 2 1/2 times bigger than Texas - there is something to be said about those numbers. You either make it through a winter in Alaska or you don't! The time clock has been turned back over 100 years now with the excitement and challenge of a new generation of gold seekers. This is truly "The Last Frontier" in America. We hope that you all have an opportunity to enjoy it someday soon.

Alaska 2011 - Haines/Skagway, Alaska

The Original White Pass Trail of 1898

After some very exciting times in Fairbanks, we headed to Haines Junction and down the beautiful and scenic Haines Highway. Haines is located at the most northern end of Lynn Canal, which is the deepest and longest fjord in North America. It is located in the heart of the Chilkat Valley with both the Chilkat and Chilkoot Rivers filled with all five species of salmon during the spawning months (May to October). Also in the fall months, it is a gathering place for approximately 6,500 bald eagles who feed off the salmon run. Commercial fishing is the primary industry, but Haines was also in the Discovery Channel’s hit show “Gold Rush Alaska” and Dalton City, where portions of “White Fang” were filmed. This was a book made famous by Jack London. We departed onto the Alaska Marine Highway, with a 45 minute ferry crossing through Lynn Canal to Skagway, Alaska.

The history of Skagway, Alaska is very complex. We have come to know Skagway as the jumping off point for thousands of gold seekers in the late 1800’s. Like so many other places throughout the United States, what is viewed as the discovery for opportunity and wealth is in reality the invasion of the traditional territory of the indigenous populations. This is exactly what happened in this area of Alaska. People do not recognize the suffering, loss, and onset of oppression experienced by the "First Nation" people. First nation tribes are slowly trying to bridge the gap that still exists around this community regarding their history and the Gold Rush Era.

The 33-mile Chilkoot Pass Trail was the starting point for many. The trail started in Dyea, which is 9-miles west of Skagway. Today, Dyea (Alaska) is a one man “Dyea Dick” town. Before the Klondike Gold Rush in 1898, this trail was controlled by the Tlingit Nation and was a trade route over the coastal mountains to the interior First Nation peoples’ land. Over 30,000 gold seekers stumbled up this trail and the last ¼ mile known as the “Golden Stairs” which had an elevation gain of 1,000 feet. At the top of the pass was Lake Bennett which provided water passage to the Yukon River and Dawson City, still 550 miles away from the gold fields. Once at the summit, over 7,200 wooden boat were built to navigate the connecting lakes. This water route only provided about 3 months passage as the lakes would freeze up and the miners would need to winter tent camp at the top of the pass until the lakes thawed. They suffered through 40 below temperatures and more. Most had to scale the pass 20-40 times (3 months) to get their required 2,000 lbs. of supplies over the pass and be given final approval by the Canadian government before they could go on. Gold was discovered on Bonanza Creek (Dawson City) in 1896. Traveling this route it would take the gold seekers 1-2 years to ever get to Dawson City, which in most cases proved to be too late for any prosperity. Upon there arrival, many turned around and went back home. Word that gold had been found in the Yukon Territory was first announced in Seattle, WA on July 17, 1897 when it was touted that more than 2 ton of gold had been found in the Klondike. A list of the "Gold Rush Miners" supply list can be accessed by clicking on the link below.

Because the well-known foot trail, Chilkoot Pass, was so rough and rugged an alternate route was discovered and became known as the White Pass route. One of the original pioneers of this route was "Skookum Jim" Mason. He and two of his friends were the first to find gold and filed the first mining claims on Bonanza Creek in 1896. He arrived far ahead of the others seeking gold treasures. This route was longer, but not as steep. The White Pass Yukon railroad was started May 28, 1898. By July 6, 1899 construction was finished to Lake Bennett and trains were running to the White Pass Summit. The railroad was completed to Whitehorse on July 29, 1900, some 26 months after it was started in Skagway. This was a remarkable effort This offered a direct route to the Yukon River from the water port of Skagway. People could now travel by ship from Seattle, WA to Skagway, by train from Skagway to Whitehorse, and by riverboat from Whitehorse to Dawson City. The tight curves through the mountains called for narrow gauge track which was 3 feet apart on a 10-foot wide road bed. The total cost of the project was $10 million dollars and was built with thousands of hands, 450 tons of explosives, - 60 degree temperatures, and with of loss of 33 workers. Many of those lost are buried in the Skagway cemetery. It is estimated that over 100,000 men and women headed north with only about 35,000 reaching their goal. By the time many of the gold seekers arrived in Dawson City, the gold rush was over. Today, Skagway is a cruise ship/tourist town only 4 months out of the year!

CLICK HERE to view the Gold Rush Miners Supply List (One Year)

CLICK HERE to view the Haines, Alaska slideshow

CLICK HERE to view the Skagway and White Pass Yukon Railroad slideshow. Come on board and take the train ride with us. We are on the back of the caboose on the way back to Skagway. Enjoy the ride up and down the mountain.

CLICK HERE to view our slideshow of the Skagway Cemetery and climbing out of Skagway to the top of the Chilkoot Pass and the connecting lakes. You will get an idea of what is was like to hike the Chilkoot Pass trail and then jump into your home-made boat and paddle your way to Whitehorse and catch the riverboat to Dawson City.

Alaska 2011 - Chena Hot Springs/Fairbanks, Alaska

You will not want to miss this post and all of the pictures that we would like to share with you. We were very busy and enjoyed all of the outdoor adventures in this area of Alaska. This is what makes all of our travel quests so exciting and educational.

This portion of our trip was one of the highlights. We left Denali and headed to Chena Hot Springs, which is 60 miles northeast of Fairbanks. Prospectors started using this spring fed hot water bath to cure their aches and pains in 1905. In 1911, a trail was established from Fairbanks for mushers and the “Hot Springs Stage, which took 20 hours to get to the hot springs. The chemical content of the hot spring water makes this comparable to the famous springs at Carlsbad in Bohemia. Chena Hot Springs will continue to welcome people from all over the world to bathe in the curative powers of hot water.

We spent one night enjoying ourselves at the hot springs and then headed back to Fairbanks for three days. Along the way we got to see the Alaska Pipeline which was very exciting. Here we visited the University of Alaska “Museum of the North”, enjoyed the famous Pioneer Park “Salmon, Halibut, Cod, Prime Rib BBQ” dinner, toured the El Dorado Gold Mine, and traveled the Chena River on the Riverboat Discovery. At the El Dorado Gold Mine you travel by narrow gauge train through a working gold mine, explore historic drift mining in a permafrost tunnel, and pan for gold. In a very short period of time panning, Nancy and I were lucky enough to get $30 worth of “flower gold”.

We traveled down the Chena River in the Riverboat Discovery stopping by Iditarod Champion and Alaska Legend “Susan Butcher” and her family. Susan not only won the 1,100-mile Iditarod Dog Sled Race (1986, 1987, 1988, and 1990), but she is the only dug musher to summit Mt. McKinley with her dog team. Susan’s life was cut short on August 5, 2006 when leukemia claimed one of Alaska’s brightest stars. Her family (husband and two daughters) keep Susan's legacy alive. One daughter is preparing to compete in the 2012 Iditarod race. While on the river we also got to visit Chena Village, which was on the original site of an Athabascan Indian Village in the early 1900’s. These people still carry on their traditional hunting, fishing, and gardening ways. Today, the Alaskan "First Nation" communities still use the entire "catch" in a useful, functional, and practical manner. There leave NO WASTE!

The University of Alaska “Museum of the North” was spectacular. Exhibits focus on Alaska Native cultures, wildlife, geography, and history of each of Alaska’s five major geographic regions.

Below there are four (4) slideshows for your enjoyment. Each one has some great pictures to share with you. We hope that you enjoy them as much as we had fun!

CLICK HERE to watch the Chena Hot Springs and Alaska Pipeline slideshow.

CLICK HERE to watch the El Dorado Gold Mine and Pioneer Park slideshow.

CLICK HERE to watch the Riverboat Discovery (Susan Butcher's Kennel & Athabascan Village slideshow.

CLICK HERE to watch the “Museum of the North” slideshow.

Alaska 2011 - Denali National Park

Denali - "The High One or Great One"

We could not wait to start our adventure to Denali National Park. We left Anchorage and passed through Wasilla, Alaska – once the home of Sarah Palin. We understand from many Alaskans, that she now lives in Arizona. We did not get to visit with her on this trip.

Mt. McKinley (Denali) is the highest mountain in North America. It stands 20,320’ high and to be able to view “The Great One” or “The High One” from its base to the top is not always possible. We were fortunate to have that “postcard” picture day.

Talkeetna, Alaska is a railroad town. Talkeetna is on the National Register of Historic Places. It is full of log cabins and old buildings. It is the permanent home of people who are very proud of their lives’ and their families. Talkeetna, Alaska is McKinley’s mountain town. The BEST professional mountain climbers from every country in the world come to this town as their jumping off point to climb Denali. You see Tibetan prayer flags, as well as Korean banners, grizzled trappers, and Alaska huskies in a very exciting and authentic Alaskan location. Flight service, from Talkeetna, takes the climbers into various locations on the mountain, including McKinley base camp at 7,200’ on Kahiltna Glacier. We had a caribou burger and beer at the West Rib Café & Pub. This is where the climbers, if successful in their summit attempt, gather to celebrate. They enjoy the West Rib caribou burger and a beer. Their names and artifacts left behind fill this old building. Around 1,200 to 1,500 make the attempt each year starting in the spring, with only a 50% success rate. The Talkeetna, Chulitna, and Susitna Rivers all meet at Talkeetna, Alaska and are a sight to see when the waters are high and the salmon spawning.

Denali National Park was awesome! There are 1 ½ million people that visit the park each year. Denali is served by the Alaska Railroad and brings people to the park from Anchorage and Fairbanks on a daily basis. We stayed at Riley Creek Campground for three days. We took the tour bus to Eielson Visitors Center, which is 66 miles into the park. This is the only way that you can see the park’s interior. Denali National Park is 6 million acres of pristine wilderness. The Denali Wilderness Preserve can only be accessed in the winter by sled dog teams. On our tour we got to see Mt. McKinley (base to top), grizzly bears, moose, caribou, dall sheep, and many birds and small mammals. It is amazing to see so many large predatory animals living is such close proximity to each other on the tundra. This can only happen when there is a vast food source available to these animals in the spring and summer months. We did not get to see any wolves or lynx, but they were definately around the park as evidence showed. Come winter, everything changes as the snows start to fall. We had a great time and took many, many pictures.

We also got to visit Sled Dog Kennels. There are 31 Alaska Huskies that are employed by the U.S. Federal Government to patrol and carry supplies into the Wilderness Preserve, which is 2 million acres, in the winter time. Ten dogs pull a sled that may range in weight from 350 to 500 lbs., which includes the “musher” and supplies. There are remote log cabins in the wilderness where park employees stay during the winter months. The Alaska Husky is not recognized by the American Kennel Society as a breed dog because it is not a “show” dog. The Alaska Husky is a “work” dog and is much bigger than the “racing dogs” used on the Qwest and Iditarod Sled Dog races.

CLICK HERE to view the Talkeetna, Alaska slideshow!

CLICK HERE to view the Denali National Park slideshow!

Alaska 2011 - Seward, Homer, Soldotna, Hope to Anchorage, Alaska

“The Deadliest Catch in Alaska”

Seward, Alaska is known as the “Gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park”. Since we had taken the glacier tour previously, we did not visit this national park. Established in 1903, Seward was an important transportation hub for Alaska’s mining, exploration, fishing, and trapping industries. The town is named after William H. Seward (U.S. Secretary of State) under President Andrew Johnson. Seward was instrumental in arranging the purchase of Alaska from Russia in 1867. The original Iditarod trail (938 miles) was established in 1910 as a mail route to Nome, Alaska. The world famous Iditarod Sled Dog Race (1,049 miles) is now run between Anchorage, Alaska and Nome, Alaska. Seward is a very small progressive and friendly community. It is famous for its mural paintings.

Homer, Alaska is the “Halibut Fishing Capital of the World”. There are so many halibut that are caught daily, it is hard to imagine that this will continue forever. We enjoyed spending time on the Homer Spit and seeing all of the boating activity, but unless you fish either salmon or halibut, there is not much else to do there.

The town of Soldotna, Alaska is the “hub” of the Kenai Peninsula. We will definitely go back here and spend some time in the future. This is the takeoff spot for an abundance of physical activities relating to fishing, hiking, biking, clam digging, socializing, and relaxation. We really enjoyed our stay at the family operated Diamond M Ranch RV Park and would like to go back and visit these wonderful people someday. In 1963, Carrol Martin and his son Blair piloted a renovated tugboat and a 400 ton barge to the Kenai. Blair was nine years old at the time. The family was originally from Colorado and wanted a different life style. They purchased a 400 ton barge from Foss Tug Company in Tacoma, WA and loaded all of their belongings on to it. This included all of their livestock, personal belongings, and the necessary building materials for their new home in Alaska. They purchased 80 acres on the Kenai Peninsula where they now live and run the Diamond M Ranch RV Park. This family is very special and their story is very Alaskan. Leaving was our most emotional experience of the trip!

Hope, Alaska was an old mining town at one time located on Turnagain Arm. We wanted to visit this small Alaskan town because of Nancy’s middle name and to see the cabin of some friends who live in Anchorage, Alaska.

Anchorage, Alaska is the biggest city in Alaska and we enjoyed the tour that our friends provided. We stayed just one day as we could not wait any longer to get to Denali National Park. We left and headed to Talkeetna, Alaska which is the headquarters and take-off location for all Mt. Denali (McKinley) climbers. We were not disappointed as our next post will show!

CLICK HERE to watch our slideshow!

Alaska 2011 - Tok, Valdez, to Whittier, AK

Alaska 2011 – Tok, to Valdez, to Whittier, AK

We head south from Tok, AK with the intention of staying at Blueberry Lake campground which is at the top of Thompson Pass on your way to Valdez. The weather was terrible so we decided to continue on to Valdez and spend a couple of days.

Valdez was founded in 1899 when gold seekers built a tent city at the base of the Valdez Glacier. They crossed the glacier into the interior of Alaska to seek their riches. In 1900 they laid a telegraph line between Washington and Alaska, bypassing Canada for the first time. In 1964, the original town of Valdez was completely wiped out with the 9.2 earthquake and a huge tidal wave. In 1967, the town was condemned and moved to its present location.

Today Valdez, hosts premier salmon and halibut fishing, winter activities, and serves the Valdez Marine Terminal, which is the southernmost end of the 800-mile Alaska Pipeline. The oil spill of 1989 caused an influx of people to Valdez to help with the clean up. During this time new buildings were built, of which the command center is now a big hotel. Valdez, Alaska has overcome many major hardships and is a constant reminder of its history.

Whittier, Alaska is located on a ice-free arm of Prince William Sound. During World War II, the U.S. Army constructed a port and rail road terminal. At the time Seward, Alaska was the major supply port for the military. It was feared that the Japanese would bomb Seward and wipe out the military supply line. A “secret port” was established at Whittier because of the constant low cloud cover and ice-free port. Two large buildings dominate the skyline – the 14 story Begich Towers, which houses the entire permanent community of the town. The Buckner Building, once the largest building in Alaska, has been abandoned. Today, the community is an important recreational center, industrial, and cruise ship port.

To drive to or from from Whittier, you must drive through the 2.5 mile Anton Anderson Memorial tunnel. This was the World War II-era tunnel used for supplies and was transformed into the longest vehicle/railroad tunnel in North America in 2000.

There are two slideshows for you to see. The first is about the community of Valdez and our ferry ride to Whittier. The second is about our 26-glacier cruise in Prince William Sound and the abundant wildlife. Hope you enjoy them both.

CLICK HERE to watch the Valdez, AK and Aurora Ferry ride.

CLICK HERE to watch the 26-Glacier Cruise and wildlife pictures.

Alaska 2011 - Dawson City, Yukon to Tok, Alaska

Alaska 2011 – Dawson YK to Tok, Alaska

We had a great ferry ride across the Yukon River and headed up the “Top Of the World” highway that connects the Yukon Territory to Alaska. It is a very slow dirt road and one that you do not want to travel if the weather is bad. There are no guard rails and there are some pretty steep drop-offs to places unknown to man below. The road is 107 miles to Chicken, Alaska which is mainly a prospecting town now. There are a couple of campgrounds, with generated 20 amp power, but no water or toilets. It is very remote!

However, there is the Chicken Café, which serves up some pretty awesome meals. You can get breakfast, lunch, and dinner and that is where most everyone eats that lives in the area. Nancy and I shared the sourdough blueberry pancakes that were served in a gold pan. There are a few tour buses that pass through every so often, giving tourists an opportunity to see how people survive in the remote Yukon Territory.

There were several gold prospectors that were staying in the campground with us. We got to meet a couple of very successful prospectors who had several mining claims in the area. We really enjoyed learning about their trade and the stories they shared. Don’t think for a minute, that the “gold rush” is not re-occurring in this area again.

We left Chicken, Alaska and headed to Tok, Alaska. Tok is on the Alaska Highway. It is the only town that you will pass through both going and returning from the interior of Alaska. We stayed at the Sourdough RV Park, which is known for their famous nightly pancake toss. If you are lucky enough to toss a sourdough pancake into the bucket, you will get a FREE breakfast the following morning. Skip won a FREE breakfast with his second toss.

We left Tok and headed to Valdez hoping to find a beautiful campsite in the mountains. Unfortunately, we ran into some rainy weather and drove the distance to Valdez. We passed the Alaska Pipeline on several occasions, but in the spring and summer you cannot see it from the road. You don’t dare drive off the highway to see it either, or you will be in big trouble. The surveillance of the pipeline is unbelievable.

Watch for our next blog Valdez, Alaska to Whittier, Alaska and our tour of the 26 glaciers in Prince William Sound.

CLICK HERE to watch our slideshow. You will especially want to see pictures of the two gold prospectors that we met in Chicken, Alaska.

Alaska 2011 - Whitehorse, YK to Dawson City, YK

Alaska 2011 – Whitehorse, YK to Dawson City, YK

Prospecting and mining is still the #1 industry in the Yukon Territory today. Through 2010, there have been 13,527,555 ounces of gold taken from the territory. Needless to say with the current price of gold, there are more and more people coming into the territory seeking their fortunes. Dawson City, YK and the Bonanza Creek area still beckon those adventuresome souls.

The aspirations of these people goes back to 1896 and the great Klondike Gold Rush. It all happened back then on a sunny August afternoon when three Yukon sourdoughs made their historical discovery on Rabbit Creek, later named Bonanza Creek. Not much has changed since then, except for technology.

The town of Dawson City is pretty much the same with its dirt roads, old and restored historical buildings, and the sense that there is still time to strike it rich in the 21st century. The charm still prevails and the allure of a “by-gone” era.

Dredge # 4 still rests in the Bonanza Creek valley after sinking and then being restored. It was built in 1911 and abandoned when it stopped being profitable in 1959. The dredge is still the largest wooden hulled, bucket line dredge in North America. It played a big part in the development history of this area. The dredge machine consisted of the bucket excavator, revolving screens, gold saving sluice boxes, tailing piles from the stacker which pivoted, and was a floating barge with a control room. It needed water to operate, so moved up the creek beds very slowly leaving tailing ponds behind. This whole operation only took 5 men to operate.

There are two slide shows which I hope you enjoy. The first is our trek to Dawson City, YK and the second is our tour of Dredge # 4.

CLICK HERE to see our slideshow of Dawson City.

CLICK HERE to see our tour of Dredge # 4.

Alaska 2011 – Teslin Lake, YK to Whitehorse, YK

After having lunch with several friends at the Teslin Lake Café, we headed out to Whitehorse. We spent the first night at the Pioneer RV Park and then decided to move up the road to the High Country RV Park which was closer to town. We spend three more days in Whitehorse relaxing and getting caught up on things. The highlights of the trip were touring the S.S. Klondike, Beringia Museum, Miles Canyon, Frantic Follies, and having fresh Halibut Fish-N-Chips at the Klondike Rib and Salmon House. It was also very exciting for Nancy to visit the original home of Sam McGee. Nancy's father, Ralph, would recite the poem "Cremation of Sam McGee" written by Robert Service, while he shaved many mornings before going to work. We also enjoyed the visitor’s center and walking around the city going back into history ourselves.

Whitehorse, YK became the transportation center of the Yukon Territory in the late 1800’s. Whitehorse was named after the historic rapids on the Yukon River which flowed through Miles Canyon. With the formation of the hydro-electric dam the rapids have been eliminated, but Miles Canyon still exists today. In 1900, construction of the White Pass & Yukon Route steam railway from Skagway to Miles Canyon opened up this area for the gold fever excitement that filled the air at that time. Whitehorse was the take off point for Dawson City, YK and the riverboats on the upper Yukon River.

The Beringia Museum takes you back to the last great ice age. While the rest of Canada lay frozen under massive sheets of ice, a region encompassing eastern Siberia, eastern Alaska, and Yukon remained untouched by glaciers. Sea levels were so low that grassy tundra was present supporting astonishing varieties of animals, plants, and man-kind. The world’s earliest humans moved into what is now North America about 24,000 years ago. There were herds of wooly mammoth’s giant bison, camels, and many other huge four legged critters.

The S.S. Klondike, built in 1929, was the largest sternwheeler on the upper Yukon River. She was 240 feet long, carried 300 tons of cargo, and had a 40” draught for the shallow Yukon River. The Klondike was a “sternwheeler”, not a “side-wheeler”, which made it easier to navigate the fast flowing, shallow, winding rivers like the Yukon. The S.S. Klondike was originally built to haul 4,500 ore bags (125 lbs. each) coming from the silver mines between Dawson City and Whitehorse. She was powered by a wood-fired locomotive style fire-tube boiler. It held 15,000 gallon of water, drawn from the river. Sternwheelers were first used on the lower Yukon River in the late 1860’s to service the many trading posts and communities. At the height of the Klondike Gold Rush (1897-8), there were 250 riverboats on the Yukon River transporting supplies and people. The Klondike had a crew of 23, earning $25 a month, and provided one-way passenger accommodations for 32 (1st Class - $35 each) and 43 (2nd Class - $25 each). The Yukon River was frozen solid for 7½ months, so the shipping season was short. Each Fall, the boats were hauled out of the water and wintered on “skid-ways” in the Whitehorse Shipyard. After sinking in 1936 and being rebuilt the S.S. Klondike carried passengers and cargo on the Yukon River until 1955 – the last Yukon River sternwheeler in active service.

We have put together two separate slide shows. The first is on Whitehorse, YK and the second is a special presentation of the S.S. Klondike. Hope you enjoy!

CLICK HERE to view the Whitehorse, YK slide presentation.

CLICK HERE to view the S.S. Klondike slide presentation.

Alaska 2011 – Fox Island, WA to Teslin Lake, YK

We started our trip north to the “Last Frontier” on May 10, 2011 and headed up I-5 to Birch Bay. Neither of us had ever been to this area, so we decided to spend our first night on the bay. Early the next morning we headed over the Canadian border, at Sumas, and had a very smooth crossing. We passed through Hope, BC and spent the night in Clinton, BC. We then traveled to Prince George, BC where we spent the night, in the parking lot, at the Treasure Cove casino. Departing Prince George, we passed through Chetwynd, BC which is known as the “chain saw carving” capital of the world. We arrived in Dawson Creek, BC, which is “Mile 0” of the Alaska Highway. This is where we met up with 23 other RoadTrekers who were seeking the same goal. The weather was beautiful and the town very accommodating. There was a terrible fire east of us at Slave Lake, Alberta and the smoke was very bad the 2nd day here. The forest fire destroyed over 40% of the town, including the high school, library, several downtown buildings, and many private homes.

Departing Dawson Creek, we headed north to Fort Nelson. This was an eventful night. Eleven of us decided to park alongside a frontage road for the night. About 11:30 PM, the town’s hired hand knocked on all of our doors and told us that we either had to move or pay a $50 fine to the city. Many of us moved across the street and parked in the IGA parking lot, only to be kicked out of the lot at 5:00 AM to make room for the delivery trucks.

We left Fort Nelson and headed to Toad River, where we camped at a pull-out spot along the river. You really start to get a feel of what lies ahead with the beautiful rugged snow-covered mountains, ever changing vegetation, wild rivers, frozen lakes, and wildlife. We had to make a short stop at Testa River RV Park to enjoy their world famous cinnamon rolls and freshly baked sourdough bread. We waited for an hour, sipping tea and coffee, for our hot rolls to arrive on the table and it was worth every minute. Our baker was a third generation member of a family that has owned and operated this facility for over 80 years. The family was originally trappers and gold seekers in this area. A night around the campfire at Muncho Lake, still frozen, was spectacular and very entertaining. Then on to Liard Hot Springs which is at the end of a ¼ mile boardwalk and well worth the plunge. This is a totally natural hot springs (102 to 108 degrees) surrounded by forest vegetation. After our soak, we head up the highway to Watson Lake where we stayed for a couple of days to catch up on laundry, TREK cleanup, and just relaxation. Here we visited the world famous “Sign Post” park, which was started in 1942 by an American soldier working on the Alaska Highway posting the first sign remembering his hometown. There are currently over 72,000 signs from all over the world in the park. Tomorrow we will leave for Teslin Lake, Yukon and then on to Whitehorse, Yukon where we will stay for four days and enjoy the history of this community.

CLICK HERE to see our picture slide show of our trip from Fox Island, WA to Teslin Lake, Yukon. Then hit the slideshow button in the upper left corner to watch the slideshow.