Alaska 2011 - Haines/Skagway, Alaska

The Original White Pass Trail of 1898

After some very exciting times in Fairbanks, we headed to Haines Junction and down the beautiful and scenic Haines Highway. Haines is located at the most northern end of Lynn Canal, which is the deepest and longest fjord in North America. It is located in the heart of the Chilkat Valley with both the Chilkat and Chilkoot Rivers filled with all five species of salmon during the spawning months (May to October). Also in the fall months, it is a gathering place for approximately 6,500 bald eagles who feed off the salmon run. Commercial fishing is the primary industry, but Haines was also in the Discovery Channel’s hit show “Gold Rush Alaska” and Dalton City, where portions of “White Fang” were filmed. This was a book made famous by Jack London. We departed onto the Alaska Marine Highway, with a 45 minute ferry crossing through Lynn Canal to Skagway, Alaska.

The history of Skagway, Alaska is very complex. We have come to know Skagway as the jumping off point for thousands of gold seekers in the late 1800’s. Like so many other places throughout the United States, what is viewed as the discovery for opportunity and wealth is in reality the invasion of the traditional territory of the indigenous populations. This is exactly what happened in this area of Alaska. People do not recognize the suffering, loss, and onset of oppression experienced by the "First Nation" people. First nation tribes are slowly trying to bridge the gap that still exists around this community regarding their history and the Gold Rush Era.

The 33-mile Chilkoot Pass Trail was the starting point for many. The trail started in Dyea, which is 9-miles west of Skagway. Today, Dyea (Alaska) is a one man “Dyea Dick” town. Before the Klondike Gold Rush in 1898, this trail was controlled by the Tlingit Nation and was a trade route over the coastal mountains to the interior First Nation peoples’ land. Over 30,000 gold seekers stumbled up this trail and the last ¼ mile known as the “Golden Stairs” which had an elevation gain of 1,000 feet. At the top of the pass was Lake Bennett which provided water passage to the Yukon River and Dawson City, still 550 miles away from the gold fields. Once at the summit, over 7,200 wooden boat were built to navigate the connecting lakes. This water route only provided about 3 months passage as the lakes would freeze up and the miners would need to winter tent camp at the top of the pass until the lakes thawed. They suffered through 40 below temperatures and more. Most had to scale the pass 20-40 times (3 months) to get their required 2,000 lbs. of supplies over the pass and be given final approval by the Canadian government before they could go on. Gold was discovered on Bonanza Creek (Dawson City) in 1896. Traveling this route it would take the gold seekers 1-2 years to ever get to Dawson City, which in most cases proved to be too late for any prosperity. Upon there arrival, many turned around and went back home. Word that gold had been found in the Yukon Territory was first announced in Seattle, WA on July 17, 1897 when it was touted that more than 2 ton of gold had been found in the Klondike. A list of the "Gold Rush Miners" supply list can be accessed by clicking on the link below.

Because the well-known foot trail, Chilkoot Pass, was so rough and rugged an alternate route was discovered and became known as the White Pass route. One of the original pioneers of this route was "Skookum Jim" Mason. He and two of his friends were the first to find gold and filed the first mining claims on Bonanza Creek in 1896. He arrived far ahead of the others seeking gold treasures. This route was longer, but not as steep. The White Pass Yukon railroad was started May 28, 1898. By July 6, 1899 construction was finished to Lake Bennett and trains were running to the White Pass Summit. The railroad was completed to Whitehorse on July 29, 1900, some 26 months after it was started in Skagway. This was a remarkable effort This offered a direct route to the Yukon River from the water port of Skagway. People could now travel by ship from Seattle, WA to Skagway, by train from Skagway to Whitehorse, and by riverboat from Whitehorse to Dawson City. The tight curves through the mountains called for narrow gauge track which was 3 feet apart on a 10-foot wide road bed. The total cost of the project was $10 million dollars and was built with thousands of hands, 450 tons of explosives, - 60 degree temperatures, and with of loss of 33 workers. Many of those lost are buried in the Skagway cemetery. It is estimated that over 100,000 men and women headed north with only about 35,000 reaching their goal. By the time many of the gold seekers arrived in Dawson City, the gold rush was over. Today, Skagway is a cruise ship/tourist town only 4 months out of the year!

CLICK HERE to view the Gold Rush Miners Supply List (One Year)

CLICK HERE to view the Haines, Alaska slideshow

CLICK HERE to view the Skagway and White Pass Yukon Railroad slideshow. Come on board and take the train ride with us. We are on the back of the caboose on the way back to Skagway. Enjoy the ride up and down the mountain.

CLICK HERE to view our slideshow of the Skagway Cemetery and climbing out of Skagway to the top of the Chilkoot Pass and the connecting lakes. You will get an idea of what is was like to hike the Chilkoot Pass trail and then jump into your home-made boat and paddle your way to Whitehorse and catch the riverboat to Dawson City.